How to Sew a Makup Bag – Zipper Closure and Lining


Keep your makeup handy with this nifty makeup
bag. Color blocking on the outside, gives it a modern look, plus it has a zipper closure
and lining. Let’s go ahead and get started! This is a good project to use your fabric
scraps on. You’ll need ⅛ of yard of main fabric, ¼ of a yard of a contrasting fabric,
and ⅓ of a yard of lining. For the main and contrasting fabrics, I recommend choosing
a cotton canvas or poplin type fabric. For the lining, I chose a quilter’s cotton. The other supplies needed are: one 9” zipper,
⅓ of a yard of fusible interfacing, and all purpose thread.
The tools you’ll need for this project are a sewing machine, iron, pins and needles,
fabric and paper scissors, ruler, paper and pencil. You’ll need to create three pattern pieces. The first one is just a rectangle that’s
4 ½” by 9 ¾”. Label it Makeup Bag – Top. Next, draw another rectangle, this time 3
⅝” by 9 ¾”. At the two bottom corners, draw a box that’s
1 ⅜” and 1 ⅛”. You can erase the lines on the outer side of these boxes because we’re
creating a notched edge. Label this pattern Makeup Bag Bottom. On the
bottom notched edge write “place on fold”. For the last pattern, draw a rectangle that
7 ¾” by 9 ¾”. At the bottom two corners, you’ll again
do your notched boxes, 1 ⅜” and 1 ⅛”. Here’s a look at this final pattern. Mark
it Makeup Bag Lining. On the bottom notched edge, write “place on fold”. All these
patterns have a ¼” seam allowance included. Next, you’ll want to cut out your fabric.
Cut two from your main fabric, using the makeup bag top pattern. Cut one from your contrasting
fabric from the makeup bag bottom pattern. Don’t forget to place the bottom edge on
the fold of the fabric. And from the makeup bag lining, cut 1 on the fold from your lining
and from your interfacing Let’s start the assembly of the makeup bag.
Start with the makeup bottom piece, unfolded, and match the unnotched edges with the long
edges of makeup top pieces. Pin the long edges right sides together on both sides. Sew a seam that’s ¼” on both of the pinned sides. Press the seam allowances, but keep them closed, going towards the contrasting bottom fabric. Looking at the right side, top stitch next to the seam line, sewing on the contrasting
fabric side and attaching the seam allowances underneath. Use a contrasting thread color
to make it stand out. Attach your fusible interfacing to your lining
piece by placing the textured side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric.
Cover with a press cloth and spray with water until damp. Place a hot iron over one section
and leave for about 5 seconds. Then lift the iron and move to another section. Keep repeating
until the interfacing is completely fused to the fabric. Take your zipper and line it up with the long raw edge of one of your makeup top sections.
It doesn’t matter which side you choose. The zipper should be centered. Right side
of zipper to right side of fabric. Put a couple of pins to hold. Take your lining and place it on the outer
shell makeup fabric, lining everything up, again right sides together. Pin the lining
on the same edge the zipper is on. So you’re pinning through three layers. The main fabric
and lining are sandwiching the zipper tape. Sew this edge at your sewing machine, using
a zipper foot and getting close to the teeth as possible. If you have trouble getting around
the zipper tab, keep the zipper unzipped and then halfway through the seam, you can then
zip the zipper and finish the seam. Lay out your project so the fabrics are facing
right side up and the zipper is in the middle. Now take the bottom long edge of the main
fabric and bring it up to match the free edge of the zipper tape. Take the bottom edge of the lining and match
it with the same edge. Pin all three layers together and sew this edge at your sewing
machine using the zipper foot. Lay it on your table, it should all be wrong
side out and the notched edges should be on both of the short ends. Make sure to unzip
your zipper almost all the way and pin the two long sides together. On the lining side, put a pair of X’d pins
about 3” apart. You’ll sew a ¼” seam on the two long edges but on this side, you’ll
start sewing, stop when you get to the first X and then continue sewing at the second X
until the end of the edge. So there will be no stitches between the X’s. Pull each notched corner apart so that the seam allowance, ends up in the middle. This
will create an angled edge. Pin and sew a ¼” seam allowance. Through the opening we left in our lining with our X’d pins, we can now flip the whole
thing right side out. It’s even easier if that zipper is unzipped. Close the opening in the lining using a slip stitch. I have thread on a hand needle and I pinned my lining hole closed. So I just tucked in the raw edged on the inside. My thread is coming up here on the first side. I’m going to grab a little bit of the folded edge on the second side. And then gently pull it so I am bringing the edges together. Now that I am on the second side I go back to the first side. Grab a little bit of that folded edge And then gently pull it. I’m going to keep zig zagging back and forth until I get to the end of my hole. Put the lining inside of your makeup bag and we’re just about done! Lastly, I like to top stitch around the top
of the bag, next to the zipper. This will not only make it look nicer, but keep the
lining inside so it won’t get caught in the zipper teeth. It will probably be hard
going all the way around because of the zipper tab, so just go around as much as you can,
using a zipper foot. And here we have the finished makeup bag!
The outside looks nice and it’s completely lined on the inside. Here’s another one
I made with a tassel pull on the zipper. If you want to add something similar, watch our
tassel necklace tutorial and I’ll show you how to make your own tassel. If you make one
of these makeup bags, please share a picture with us on social media. We hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Please
subscribe to get notified of our weekly releases. Also, check out Professorpincushion.com to
view our complete library with well over 350 sewing tutorials. If you would like to directly
support us, you can check out our patreon campaign and earn some exclusive perks. Thanks
for watching!

40 thoughts on “How to Sew a Makup Bag – Zipper Closure and Lining

  1. I would love to make this bag but I know I can't cut straight lines. I wish there was an available printable template. PLEASE add one.

  2. I enjoyed watching this video. The directions were clear, concise and easy to understand. The voice over, along with the visuals, made this a project easy to see how it all comes together and I want to try this. It would make a great gift for all the women in my life!

  3. to connect with​ a wider audience I would call this bag Project Bag too because the knitting and crocheting communities use them for carrying their crafty projects. Thanks for sharing!

  4. I liked the way the pieces were constructed and laid out in a horizontal fashion. I found this an easier method for me to understand how to create the bag, although sewing in the zipper may be tougher due to the thickness. Also, thanks for the hand sewing tip, I’ve never tried the zigzag technique.👍🏻

  5. Love the video. Can you please include cm measurements so that those of us over the pond don't have to convert. Many thanks

  6. Professor, I need help with a McCalls M7154 1930 gown with the shoulders connection for the over bodice needs to be sewn at shoulders with the under bodice. The problem is; I do not know how to do that with the raw edges- will be out or do I tuck in the raw edges at the over bodice? It is great to have experience Dressmakers but when we need help where do we go? Visual? thanks

  7. I like the construction of this bag. However, are the dimensions correct? The piecing of the outside of the bag makes it smaller than the lining. The outside height would be (4 1/4 less 1/4 seam) plus (3 5/8 less 1/4 seam) equaling 7 3/8 whilst the lining is 7 3/4. I'll look at he video again to see if I wrote down the wrong dimensions or there there is a reason for the difference?

  8. Hi Tova! A cool idea I thought of is if you were to make a video on doll clothes or even sewing in that With doll clothes, it's close to impossible to make things like a double welt pocket or a tailored suit jacket sleeve with the buttons or a mandarin collar. I'm in the process of making a Nehru jacket for my Alistair Wonderland doll and I'm ripping my hair out as my fabric gets reduced to thread.
    I know you have a list of things to do but if you could do this at some point in time, you would save me and the rest of the doll customizing community a ton of trouble.

  9. I made two bags using this tutorial, it was very easy to follow and my project turned out great! Thank you so much! I would just ask, what kind of fusible interacting did you use?

  10. I bought a couple different patterns to make a bag just like this but got so confused I never started. Now thatbibe found your video I have all my materials back out and excited to get started, you make it so easy…thank you!!! However, I do have one question. How would I adjust the measurements to make a larger bag of the same kind. I think I can figure most of it out (maybe) except the cutouts for the box bottom. Is there a ratio you use?

  11. Love watching your video's. But do have a question if anyone can answer. What doe's it do when you cover the interfacing with a pressing cloth and spray with water. Have seen it done this way quite a bit just not sure why. Would love someone to explain why. Thank you

  12. I really enjoyed this video and have made two makeup bags now. Just out of curiosity, what is the reason for applying the interfacing to the lining, rather than the main fabric? For bags I've made in the past, the interfacing was applied to the main fabric. Thank you!!

  13. I’m not sure if this is just user error but my fabrics came out way too long too long wonky even after I checked the patterns twice :/

  14. I really would like to know how you see on the zipper area… do you fold and push outward or inward? Does it get difficult sewing on it… it’s he point where the lining and the main fabric meets

  15. I just made one of these for myself. I used all cottons and backed all the pieces with feather weight interfacing. I'm tempted to make a few more as gifts for the women of my boyfriend's family.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *