Honda Accord LED Interior How To Install – 8th Generation 2008-2012


How’s it going everyone, my name is
Phil with PrecisionLED.com and today we have a 2011 Honda Accord we’ll
be installing LED interior lights on. Now this installation is compatible with
year models 2008 through 2012. That would be the eighth generation. And it is compatible with
the SE, the LX, and all the different variations of the Accord. Now today we’re gonna be using our
PrecisionLED 5050 style or, sorry 5730 style premium LED conversion kit. And all of our kits come with three interior trim tools we’ll be using to assist
with the installation. We have a crowbar shape tool,, a serrated knife tool with the flat end, as well as a pointed wedge. And you’ll see us use these tools
throughout the installation to prevent any markings or damage to the vehicle
during the process. Now today we’re going to be installing on our front map lights: one on the driver’s side, one on the passenger side. We have some courtesy
door lights on each side in the front. A single dome light in the rear, the trunk
light, as well as the license plate light. Let’s go ahead and get started. We’re looking now at the
front overhead console on the Honda. As you can see we’ve already got one side
replaced, a really nice bright white light. I’m gonna show you how to do it on the passenger side. We can use the crowbar shape tool here. Come in from the center and pull
these ones out. And as you can see, well this one’s already broken from a previous owner. But a tab here and here is what holds this in place. And this is
the actual portion where it’s rocking back and forth. These are festoon type bulbs, so we can
just remove from one side here and pull those out. There you go. And replacing it with
one of our premium 5730 style LEDs. Now, these are direct replacements.
They fit right in. You want to face the LED board down and
slightly over towards the passenger side. Test to make sure it works. And all we have to do is put that lens cover back in place. You want to put the rocker side in first. That one’s the easier side to deal with. And
then you’re putting light pressure until that one snaps in place. That’s it. For the vanity mirror lights,
we have two festoon bulbs here. Now, we’re gonna
use a combination of two tools. We’re gonna use the flat end of our
serrated knife tool. Come in from the side here, just create some pressure. And then we’re actually going to use the pointed wedge down here at the bottom to release the clip that’s holding it in place. If you take a look at how this works, it’s really just this clip that’s
holding the assembly in. Now that you have access, we’re just gonna pop the festoon bulb out. And since it’s hot, I’m just gonna let this sit while I get the other one out. Same process. Put this one on the side, this one comes in from the bottom. There we go. Same clip. Ok. We have some of these smaller 29 millimeter by 5 millimeter diameter bulbs. And these ones are actually
5050 style and so they are polarity-specific
which means that if it’s not working, you have to turn it around and match the
polarity. There you go. The other side. This one’s correct. And we’re just going to reassemble. Start at the top first and then you’re pushing this one in. Second one, start from the top. And there you go. We’re looking now at the rear dome light. We’re gonna use the flat end of our serrated knife tool. We’re gonna come in from the back here get in between the lens cover and the housing. We’re just gonna slide it through and that
should release the plate. Gonna use the pointed wedge tool to help me get out the festoon bulb that’s in there right now. There we go. And we’re replacing it with one of our premium 5730s. Make sure the board’s pointed in the
direction you want. You’re just gonna test it to make sure it works. And put that cover back in place.
Now the cover has to go on back side first here, where it’s closest to the switch. And then you push in with pressure
right here and right here. That’s it. We’re looking at one of the two courtesy
door lights here. And this is the front driver side. We’re gonna use the front end of our serrated knife tool. Come in from the top and we’re gonna create some separation. And that one’s just going to pop out. It’s just a single lens. Now the bulb’s going to be a little bit hot so I do have a rag that I’m gonna get this into. But you can use the pointed wedge tool. Come in from the side and help to pop it out. Once you have the bulb out, we’re gonna put our premium LED in. You just wanna make sure that the leads here on the sides are slightly outward. And that way you get the best contact. Now that you have that one in, the lens cover, if you take a
look, has a distinct top and bottom. The ones on the bottom, the tabs are pointing straight down. That one goes on the bottom here. And these ones are a little bit of pressure. They push in from the sides. That’s it. We’re looking now at the trunk assembly. And you’re going to use the pointed section of your serrated knife tool. You’re gonna come in from this side here. This would be, if you’re looking at the trunk,
on your right hand side. And you’re gonna press inward and pull down and that releases the assembly, right here. Now, all we need to do, and I’m just gonna unplug this so we don’t so you can see a little bit more clear. You can use a pointed wedge tool
to help you remove the bulb. And replace it with the LED. We’re gonna test just to make sure it works. And when you have it back in, the connector side goes in first. And you just push it in. What we’re looking at now is the
interior of our trunk lid. And this connector, in particular, is for the
driver side license plate light. We’ve already done the installation on the
passenger side, so I’m not going to show you, it’s actually the exact same process. But you’re gonna take your thumb
and your pointer finger and you’re pushing
together the two sides here to release this clip from the housing. There we go. And, if you can see here, that is your
bulb. Now, I’m gonna remove it and replace it with one of our LEDs. Now, the premium 5730 style don’t fit well in this housing, so we’re going to be using
one of our standards. And that means that you have to
make sure that they work before you put them back into the housing. So we’re gonna go ahead and test the lights right now. And that one does work. However, if it did not work, you would
have pulled it out and turned it around to reverse polarity. The premiums don’t
typically have that issue because they have circuitry designed to work in either
orientation, or either polarity. Now putting this one back in is a little bit tricky. You need to kind of rest this portion
here first on the housing. And then you’re gonna press in with these to push it in. There we go. Once you hear those two snap
sounds you know that it’s back into place. And that should be it. And that’s the end of the installation. If you have any questions or concerns please email us at [email protected] or you can reach us online and submit a support ticket at www.PrecisionLED.com/contact Please like or subscribe if you enjoyed the video or enjoy the process for what we do. It really does help us out when we make the next one knowing that there’s people out there
watching the videos. Have a good one!

16 thoughts on “Honda Accord LED Interior How To Install – 8th Generation 2008-2012

  1. Do these LED lights dim down when the car doors are opened and closed like they do with the factory bulbs? Didn't seem like they did in the video and it's not clear in the product description in your website. Please clarify.

  2. i tried putting in led lights while switch on.. it kinda flashed and stopped working even the other side stopped working. do u know what could have happen…?

  3. I watch this video all the time everything is easy to handle except putting the license plate housing back

  4. I have a 2011 Accord also (V6) & I just replaced every light in my car with LED & I even put LEDs in my DRLs, reverse lights and trunk light. What a difference it makes, in terms of making my car look and feel more special lol

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